Introduction

Introduction

These days, we are a global society.

There is no denying the fact that given the mechanics of our country it is difficult and expensive to travel overseas. However, despite this, over twenty percent of Americans own a valid passport. I am one of them. My name is Josh and I am a student of the University of Rhode Island class of 2009. When I wrote this blog, I was a senior who had spent over eighteen years in Rhode Island, my life changing yearly in the same way that the New England foliage bares its secret to the world year after year, falling and reforming. Each year was a little bit different with colors shaded by experience. One such experience, and the theme of this series of articles, was my recent study abroad experience in Osaka, Japan. I hope that I can provide you, the reader, with a glimpse of a new perspective that we as Exchange students hold during our times abroad. It encompasses feelings of excitement, feelings of frustration, and sometimes even feelings of honest awe at the differences that are easy to misunderstand and yet, with a little careful consideration, can become a point of connection and not separation.

I owe the success of my trip to the support of both the Benjamin Gilman Scholarship and the Freeman Asia Scholarship. Without the support of their dedicated staff and financial counseling, many a young person from humble backgrounds, such as myself, could not have lived their dreams. This is dedicated to them, and to my University for supporting me throughout my exchange.

-Table of Contents-

Dancing in the Streets
Igneous Landscapes
Valentine's Day
Exploring the World on only one pair of shoes
Relax! Go ahead, read a book.
Sakura, Sakura
Itadaki! Food in Japan.
Takarazuka Review, the all female troupe
Youth Hostelling

Dancing in the Streets

Article 1 - Dancing in the Streets Many of us have heard the rumors that there are many, many people in Japan. One of the more accurate descriptions that I have heard is that it is a land of mountains and rice fields that stretch out into the distance. In the countryside, the rice fields do in fact roll out for miles and miles in all directions, and even under the highways and railways until they hit the looming mountain ranges on the horizon. Of course Japan has its fair share of urban setting, though you do find the occasional rice field among the apartments as well. With much of the available land used for agriculture or made uninhabitable by jutting crags and hilly giants, one thing is for certain, and I think that the second accurate description that I've heard can present this fact well enough. Take the entire population of the United States and try to fit it into an island the size of California, more than seventy percent of which is not suitable for building, and you have a general idea of what Japan is really like. So, what happens when you have so many people attending a single University? This brings us to the point of today's article. The typical Japanese University is both vibrant and compact, offering students the opportunity to pursue all sorts of hobbies and interests in a group setting. Sports, Brass Band, Photography, Mountaineering, and Aviation are some of the interesting clubs that can be found, along with street dancing... Yes, street dancing! A quick jaunt around campus during early evening hours, or a quaint amble into the downtown area of the nearest city will provide you with a glimpse of something not normally seen in American Universities. There are people, sometimes in the tens or twenties, standing in formation before any store glass window large enough to provide an adequate reflection, practicing their group hip-hop dancing routines for the many competitions that are held in various places across the country. I was fortunate enough to be around when one of these competitions was held at my University, otherwise I would have remained mystified. Lights flashed and music played while teams rotated on and off the round outside stage, dressed in costume and laughing, all the while with legs flying about in the air. The energy that radiated from the teams made me want to dance, too. It was easy to understand how students could get drawn into this crowd. I remember thinking back to a movie my host family had introduced me to months before called, "Umi Zaru" or ocean monkeys. The term, in itself, is a nickname referring to the Japan Coast Guard rescue divers who demonstrated a group mentality quite like what I was seeing on the stage in front of me. It's a fantastic movie, though still untranslated, with keen insight into the ways that people can bond together towards a common goal. Then, I thought back to the comedy film "Waterboys", and then to my own personal experience with clubs. Business has also been portrayed in this light in the West. We see videos of company workers gathering in the early morning hours outside the building, exercising in formation in huge numbers. We see videos of uniformed police officers, also in formation, lined up outside of headquarters to hear the chief's morning address. We see office cubicles neatly arranged, and automobiles meticulously parked. It's very easy to forget that each of these minds is a unique individual by looking at these videos. However, it is simply true that people here in Japan just prefer to work in well-organized, large groups. The benefits of it are many. Social networking is made easier by connections with like minded people, and there is rarely a time when a friend would look at a class picture and say, "I know this person, but I've forgotten their name." By watching these competitors and dancers express their passion in such an unrestrained manner, I found that I had learned a vital secret towards the goal of adjusting to this culture and making friends. To the reader who may travel over to unknown territory someday, please consider joining a club or organization as soon as you arrive. You won't regret it.

Igneous Landscapes

Article 2 - Igneous Landscapes The very first part of my stay in Japan was with a family. By taking part in their everyday activities, I found that children were fascinated with the same things no matter the country. Insects, ghost stories, sports, and fairy tales all held their attention. Let’s talk about Japanese fairy tales a bit, and relevantly, the legend surrounding Mt. Fuji. Here in America we have our slew of fairy tales: Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, Cinderella, Robin Hood – has the reader ever pondered about what kind of stories children around the world know and adore? Most Japanese fairy tales deal with some sort of lesson that is played out between colorful characters and vibrant personalities. There is one, named “Issun Boshi – size of a finger”, where a young man who cannot grow taller than the size of a finger sets off on a journey to meet with an important person and prove himself. He befriends the princess of the kingdom. When the two of them are attacked by monsters while walking, none other than Issun Boshi saves the day with his toothpick size Katana. One of the monsters holds a mystical hammer which allows the young man to grow to full height, and with pompous and fanfare he and the princess marry. In another, a man saves a swan with a broken wing and is surprised when a young woman appears suddenly at his door the next day. She stays and works with him for some time spinning beautiful fabric that the man sells at the market for a hefty profit. Her only request is that he does not peek in at her while she works. One day, he does just that and is surprised to see a swan sat at the spinning table in place of the girl. She flies away and is never seen again. Knowing a few of these stories truly allowed me to relate to the many children I encountered during my stay. Calling a boy by the name “Kitaro,” another story, was often times enough to get a smile and a warm-hearted reception. There is another side to Japanese fables. Many are rooted in ancient mythology. Like many others who visit Japan, climbing Mount Fuji was high on my to-do list. So, when I finally arrived after 4 hours of train and bus travel, finding out the mythology behind Fuji was not so high on said list; I wanted to climb that mountain! In retrospect, however, I can remember a book that I flipped through in the book store on the 5th station halfway up the mountain, being the last accessible station by motor vehicle. In actuality, there are many stories surrounding Mt. Fuji and its status as Japan’s tallest mountain. The one that I like the most, however, follows. Back in the old days, Fuji was not the tallest mountain in Japan. The tallest was Yatsugatake, and it was a major point of contention between the god and goddess living on top of these mountains. The quarreling became so much that one day they prayed to the great Buddha to solve the problem. Buddha saw it as a complex problem and decided after much thought to lay a channel between the peaks of the two mountains. He then would pour water into the channel, and the mountain to which the water flowed would be the shorter of the two. Moments later, Fuji was decided as the shorter of the two. The goddess of Fuji, discontent with the verdict, waited until everyone was sleeping and then took a giant wooden staff and struck the peak of Yatsugatake, splitting the mountain into eight smaller peaks. While this type of story is often above the heads of most Kindergarten students, it is still an important part of Japanese culture and provides a unique angle on storytelling. Attached above is a photo that I took on the second to last station, right before the summit. Take a close look. Can you spot the goddess of Mt. Fuji?

Valentine's Day

Article 3 - Valentine's Day Valentine’s Day is a popular day in Japan, but probably not for reasons that you might expect. Sure, as is common in the United States, people give chocolates and other gifts to their significant others. In Japan, only women give these gifts on Valentine’s Day! Seems a bit unfair, right? It doesn’t stop there, however. Women will also give a sort of gratitude chocolate set or other gift to men in their lives who have made an impact, whether personal or professionally. As these two gifts are for completely different purposes, a clear distinction must be made to prevent misunderstanding. So when all is said and done, confectionery stores (okashiyasan) and supermarkets (supa-) make a hefty profit and everyone is happy; or at least, everyone is happy when one month passes and it becomes White Day, a Japan specific holiday where the method is flipped and men are expected to return the favor to the women who thought of them on Valentine’s Day. Most of the students that I was studying with thought these two days were wonderful. Some of the girls in the class took it a step farther and passed out one piece of candy to each male student in the classroom. Did I forget to mention that the average White Day gift is expected to be worth more than and sometimes three times as much as the average Valentine’s Day gift? I had to keep track of who gave what, and if you ever go to Japan, I suggest you do too! Japanese society is filled with such formalities, and at first I found it very difficult to adjust to. Certain gifts are given on certain holidays and occasions, but it seemed to me that a 1200yen box of sweets was almost always appropriate. I ended up buying quite a few of these boxes, as it seemed as if I was expected to bring a gift with me to any new place that I went. It was frustrating, as I was not used to buying gifts for people I hardly know, but I found that this was an effective way of making a good first impression when I couldn’t speak the language very well.

Exploring the World on only one pair of shoes

Article 4 - Exploring the World on only one pair of shoes As anyone who has been to a foreign country before can tell you, exploring beyond one’s familiar area takes guts. I have always admired people who seemed to know a little bit about many different places. For example an acquaintance of mine, when asked the question, “Can you suggest a nice place to go for a few days?” will always answer with “Pick a state.” I tried my best to take this attitude as I spent my year overseas in Japan. Of course, there is always some obligation waiting around the corner to ground you to the town you live in. Homework, social gatherings, lectures and events are just a few. Despite this, somehow I managed to visit a number of places in a number of Prefectures. However, the most memorable of them was my trip to Shirahama in the Wakayama Prefecture. Not only did this trip change the way that I thought about traveling, but it was also the first time that I had travelled somewhere more than 2 hours away from my living quarters by myself. The strange thing about travelling around alone in Japan is the treatment that you get from most people. In Japan, a large noisy group of friends travelling about is a good way to keep people from approaching and talking to you. However, as a single traveler you are presented with a perfect opportunity to socialize and win the hearts of many people. Families, other single travelers, and restaurant staff all open up a little when you tell them that you’re travelling alone and want to hear their opinion on something. After doing this for a day and seeing the sights, I managed to bump into three people who were also travelling around Japan; there were two girls from Italy, and one guy from Romania. We joined up for the evening, and jumped from restaurant to restaurant. Finally, at the end, we sat down at a public foot bath. Shirahama is famous for them. While sitting, chatting, and soaking our feet in what appeared to be a pool of hot water with a sculpture of a shell in the middle, a strange thing happened. A bar owner and his companion wandered up to us and started proclaiming his Karaoke bar to be the best in the whole city. Naturally, we had to see for ourselves. This sort of advertising happens, and often times the only way to find an event or famous place is just to be in the right spot at the right time. This trip taught me that travelling by oneself can present a huge number of opportunities that can easily be missed if you always travel in a group. For most of us, time in a foreign country is short and goes by faster than we’d like. All we can do is try to make the best of our time. Plus, you never know what worldly friends you might meet while plodding around, taking pictures and notes of a few beautiful places you might want to show somebody, someday. Here’s a shot of one of the famous sights in Shirahama – Senjyoujiki.

Relax! Go ahead, read a book.

Article 5 - Relax! Go ahead, read a book. I know that there are book lovers among us here on this blog. After all, you wouldn’t be reading this if there wasn’t an interest in learning new and interesting things. And so today we’re going to the bookstore. Hop on your bike, pedal a bit while dodging the metal poles that are sticking up in the middle of the sidewalk to prevent motorbikes and vehicles from using the large sidewalks to escape traffic. You’re almost there! You’re going to pass, on the left, a group of seven high school students who are riding laden with gym bags and merrily chatting without looking where they’re going. One of them swerves toward you, but your reflexes make quick work of it. This is a skill you can perfect in Japan, after all. It’s best if we don’t get hit by that car whose driver isn’t looking in our direction, after all. Pedal…pedal…pedal… Congratulations, you’ve arrived. Let’s park the bike in the bicycle parking lot. Don't forget where it is! It'll take you ages to find it later if you do, since all of the bikes look the same.

Head across the plaza and up the stairs. Look at all the signs and find the one marked by the character for book. The character is pretty simple, and the sign is usually some bright color.

One step inside will show you why I had you go to the bookstore before you even unpacked your suitcase. Then again, maybe it's not so impressive to people who haven't come from a state where the nearest book store is a thirty minute drive. In Japan, regardless of where you are, there is almost always a book store an approximate five minute walk away, under that bright sign.

On average, a new novel in small paperback form costs roughly 450 yen. At today's current exchange rate, $1US equals roughly 90 Yen. This style of book that is no bigger than your outstretched hand and can fit in your pocked is extremely popular, and I don't quite know why it hasn't picked up in other countries as well.

Hard covers range anywhere from $8 to $25. Textbooks, from $15 to $65. Strangely, I don't remember paying more than $25 for a textbook while I was abroad. Quite the difference from the United States.

There are plenty of magazines on fashion, motorcross, sports, travelling, current events, science, and other catagories laid out on the shelves in a colorful fashion as well. The best part is undoubtedly the fact that all books that are not in some sort of wrap are laid on the shelves with the expectation that you, the customer, are going to spend 10 minutes to a couple of hours deciding whether or not you're going to buy it.

I don't know how bookstores in Japan manage to make a modest profit when more than half of the people in the store at one time are reading their favorite book and not buying anything. It might be from all of the pens and stationery that get sold at $4 or more a piece. Japan is serious about its pens and pencils.

And then there's Manga, or Japanese Illistrative Books. You can expect that part of each store will be dedicated to this popular form of media, and for good reason. There is a huge market for this form of easy reading among people from all age groups.

Here's a snapshot of a display of popular travel magazines. Can you spot the one for Okinawa?

Sakura, Sakura

Article 6 - Cherry Blossom viewing season in Japan

Many of us have heard about the Cherry Blossom viewing season that takes place at various places in the United States yearly. Japan gave a large number of Cherry Blossom trees to the United States in the year 1912 to celebrate the two nations’ then budding friendship. “Why the focus on Cherry Blossoms, you might be thinking, “when most people have heard about if not seen a Sakura tree?” That might even be why you, the reader, have skipped to this article. The truth is that to most people who see Cherry Blossoms yearly, it isn’t so much the trees that are special and notable. Instead, in Japan it is the memories of the social gatherings and drinking that takes place under the Cherry Blossoms that are both the most memorable and exhausting. I once went to a viewing that was held in Washington, DC in the West Potomac Park. I remember, as a child, that I was quite bored walking around and looking at the trees. There weren’t a large number of people and so the memory is a very bold one. Yet during my stay in Japan, I knew by the gathering excitement that things were going to be different. I waited in anticipation as the season approached. The first and most formidable surprise was the sheer number of people that roamed the streets, looking for a place under the Sakura to set down a blanket and call their friends. These scouts were not always individuals, either, but also groups of company employees sometimes numbering in the hundreds. The roar of laughter and clapping could have been heard from the next town over, I sometimes thought.

The flowers stay on the trees just long enough for a few walks, or a few bicycle rides, before dropping and littering the pathways with pink petals. The flowers bloom and wilt in different parts of the world at different times because of differences in climate and latitude, and most major news channels in Japan cover the timing of Mankai, or the time when the Cherry blossoms in the area will be at their best. The date changes yearly, and so it becomes a big topic of conversation in offices and social circles around the country. And when Mankai arrives, it is quite the sight to see. The skies become a flood of pink and people merrily jaunt about taking pictures here and there, laughing. A day like this, hardly ever a fight and where most people put aside their differences and strive for goodwill and the collaborative experience, would be a welcome addition to the ceremonies held in the United States. Of course, the plum made alcohol does play a big part in that. When the day is finished, people pack up and shamble back to their houses. They leave and the park is meticulously clean, and the only sign that people had been there is a small pile of garbage that is removed the next day by town workers. Mankai has ended.

Itadaki! Food in Japan.

Article 7 - Itadaki! Food in Japan. Itadakimasu. What does it mean? This is one of the first words a student of Japanese learns, and only a few weeks into the course. It literally means, "I'm going to humbly recieve this," but it is generally used as a grace to both the night's good circumstances and the person who cooked. So, what sort of other questions do I often itadakimasu? I’ve been asked on more than one equation the following question: “What IS Japanese food, anyway?” In the States, there are often times many restaurants that claim to serve Japanese food, including the famous Hibachi table restaurants. In truth, a Hibachi Table is a large pit with an iron kettle placed on legs in the center of it. The Hibachi Tables we encounter in America are actually Teppen, or Iron Tables. I don’t suppose I’ll ever know why the wrong word became so popular. Wikipedia even mentions it. In any case, I’ve decided that this blog would provide a great opportunity to present to you, the reader, a few of the more unique and delicious dishes that make Japanese cuisine so popular. But first, let’s start with the basics. What kind of food are you likely to eat when you go to Japan? No, the answer is not “only cup noodles.” Two of the most prevalent staple foods in Japan are rice and fish, though meat is also popular, though the portions are usually smaller due to expense. Mix in a few oddities and might get something tantalizing such as in the following picture. One might eat something like this while visiting a family in Japan. Some of you might be thinking, "I see Egg, Rice, and some vegitables. There's not much fish." Let me introduce you to the type of Sashimi that is served at specialty restaurants. These plates can really empty your wallet, depending on what's on the plate. Speaking of what's on the plate, this particular arrangement includes both Octopus and Scallop. Such a dish is much too expensive for normal consumption, however, and that brings us to the next two dishes. Coincidentally, these two dishes are often used for social gatherings since everyone surrounding the table has a hand in cooking.

First, there is a sort of cooking where you throw a number of ingredients into a sauce and cook it in an iron pot. This type of cooking is called Nabe.

Next is a famous dish for people in Osaka called Takoyaki. The lovable part of this dish is the small chunk of octopus that's hidden in the center of each ball. On the streets, and particularly in Osaka, you can usually spot a cooking stand or two. A few of the balls are burnt in the picture below, but that was largely my fault. You'd never see a burnt one while watching a Takoyaki Master perform.

A few other really popular dishes in Japan are Udon (a thick noodle served in broth), Omelet Rice (a large omelet served witih rice in the center), Katsu (breaded and fried meat cuts), and of course, the infamous Sushi (a sashimi and rice combination). Keep your eyes open for these dishes too the next time you visit a Japanese restaurant.

Takarazuka Revue, the all female troupe

Article 8 - Takarazuka Revue 

Big lights, loud music, action, excitement, and lasting memories compose that which is show business. Broadway is to some a mystery, and to others an addiction. We love it, or we hate it. Still, even those who love it miss out on some of the more unique performances available when we travel to a foreign country. This is one of them. Takarazuka is the term used to refer to that group of over 400 women, split up into five troupes, who perform various shows both inside of Japan and overseas. These women, all of which train for years to perfection in a ruthless acting school, lead a life of stardom and popularity, appearing on television frequently and without reserve. Each troupe, and there are five of them, have a few members who are considered the top stars and remain so for as long as they can maintain their fan base.

 Actually, probably the most surprising part of the whole concept, which has been going on for nearly one hundred years, is the concept behind the troupe. Upon entering the troupe, each member is required to choose a gender. For the remainder of their career, members will dedicate themselves entirely to becoming that gender onstage. They do it with impeccable accuracy, and from high up in the seats I found myself pulling for the feminine traits in the male actresses, and not finding any. It wasn’t just me, either. News report after news report, interview after interview people keep saying the same thing: if it weren’t for the general knowledge that the cast is all female, people would have no way of distinguishing the difference between genders in Takarazuka. 

 If the reader has a chance to experience a performance by this troupe, I would highly recommend it. They always provide an English synopsis of the storyline and so even with a low comprehension rate of Japanese, the performance will move and enthrall you.

Youth Hostelling

Article 9 – Youth Hostelling There are a few basic worries that some individuals have in regards to travelling, whether it be in a foreign country or one’s homeland. “I don’t have nearly enough money for accommodation. Hotels are so expensive.” “I don’t know a thing about the area I’d like to visit.” “All of my friends are busy and wouldn’t be able to join me.” Would the reader be surprised to know that there is a solution to these dilemmas? With youth hostelling, an individual or small group of young adults can visit a wide variety of places for a fraction of the cost associated with hotel hopping. I took advantage of just that, and utilized a few youth hostels while I was travelling about Japan, doing research and meeting people. Youth hostelling answered the above three questions well enough for me. As an exchange student on a tight budget, naturally I didn’t have much in the way of disposable funds. By staying at a youth hostel, I was able to stay for extended periods of time for what a night would cost me at an expensive hotel. Being able to research a place before going can make a tremendous difference in how well the trip goes. However, most English guide books only cover the truly famous places in Japan, and even so they don’t go into great detail about everything. There is also where a Youth Hostel can help; the owners are often veterans of the area and can attest to helping numerous other lost travelers solidify the day’s plans. Not only that, but they usually keep a library of books in the hostel just for that purpose. The third answers provided the most motivation for me. People who stay at Youth Hostels are more often than not world travelers. This makes for some great downtime conversation and provides a wonderful chance to meet new people and make friends. Every hostel tends to be different, as well. Some take on a certain theme, such as the hostel “Morinoki” in Otaru, a city in Hokkaido. Packed with books and built high up above the street, it had a sort of tree house feel to it. Another, “Shimin Katsuya” in Shirahama, a city in Wakayama, was very simple with a traditional garden pond laid right in the middle of the structure. It was all very interesting. Below are a few pictures that I took of the hostels I stayed at.